The tour will be conducted by Nigel McGilchrist who first settled in the Mediterranean area over 25 years ago and has lived and worked in all three of the countries. Between 1988 and 2005 he accompanied numerous generations of Sewanee students to Greece, Turkey and Italy, through the European Studies program, on which he taught every year, and for which he served as Dean for seven years between 1993 and 2000.
PRELIMINARY ITINERARY
Dear Fellow Travellers,
Our plan for 2009 is to offer a trip to Istanbul and Turkey. The trip will be 8 nights long, just as in previous years, split between 5 nights in Istanbul, and 3 nights in rural Turkey, so as to provide an interesting contrast. On the fall trip, after Istanbul, we fill fly to Antalya on the south (Pamphylian) coast of Turkey and spend three days exploring the ancient classical sites of its beautiful coast-line – from Side in the east, whose extensive ruins lose themselves in the dunes beyond the town, to Termessos in the west whose mountain-top theatre has one of the most dramatic settings of any in the ancient world. On one of the days we will sail across the Gulf of Antalya in our own boat to visit ancient Phaselis, where Alexander the Great wintered in the first year of his Persian campaign. The tour will end with an early morning flight back to Istanbul Airport arriving in good time to make the connection for your return transatlantic flight.
The dates are as follows: (Istanbul & Pamphylia) – Saturday September 26th to Sunday October 4th 2009. We have selected the dates for the trip so as to avoid being in Turkey during Ramadan, the Moslem month of fasting. We will stay a hotel in Istanbul, the Yeşil Ev (pronounced ‘yeshil ev’). This is an old Ottoman mansion with a garden, pleasantly converted into an hotel and situated mid-way between Santa Sophia and the Blue Mosque, at the very heart of historic Istanbul. Most of the big hotels which tours use are some distance away and require taxis or coaches to reach the historic area; the Yeşil Ev, however, is within walking distance of all the greatest sights, and of the Grand Bazaar. It is an hotel I have known for many years, and is pleasant and simple: it has air-conditioning, a walled garden to the rear, and serves a good breakfast; but, beyond that, it has few frills. In both Cappadocia and Antalya we will continue with Turkish-style hotels – staying in a converted stone mansion, partly cut into the rock, in Cappadocia, and a wooden Ottoman town-house in Antalya. There will be our usual emphasis on excellent local food, very special and delicate Turkish pastries, and unusual outings – a turkish-bath and massage for those who feel up to it, rug-viewing and buying for anyone interested, and even a chance to sit with a hookah over tea for the courageous. One evening the ladies in our group will do some belly-dancing for us. Just joking… perhaps.
ISTANBUL:
Saturday September 26th:
Arrival from the USA during the morning: transfers to the Yeşil Ev Hotel. Tea in the garden at 3pm. At 4 pm a walk across to visit Byzantium’s greatest monument, the church of Santa Sophia, in the evening light when most of the crowds are leaving. Drinks in the Four Seasons Hotel, and dinner afterwards in Kum Kapı, the fish-market area.
Sunday September 27th:
A first walk through the historic centre of Byzantium: visiting the ancient cisterns, the Hippodrome, the mosque of Sultan Ahmet or ‘Blue Mosque’ (from the outside only), Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, with its walls of 16th century Iznik tiles, and the 6th century church of SS. Sergius and Bacchus. Lunch in a very simple köfte café near the hotel. An afternoon visit to the Grand Bazaar and to the Süleymaniye Mosque. Return to hotel. 7.30 pm leave by private coach for the Biges Et Lokantası in Levent, to dine in style in a flourishing modern area of the city.
Monday September 28th:
We take our own boat all the way up the Bosphorus, as far as Sariyer, passing beneath the two bridges which join Europe and Asia. Visit to the Sadberk Hanim Collectionof Turkish Art. Return by private coach via lunch overlooking the Bosphorus at Arnavutköy. After lunch, our transport will drop us at the Spice Bazaar, and we will visit the tiled Rüstem Paşa Mosque. Return to hotel. Turkish bath or hamam for those interested. Dinner on own this evening.
Tuesday September 29th:
Morning ferry to the ‘Princes Isles’ in the Sea of Marmara, visiting Büyük Ada and its wooden Ottoman mansions. Lunch in a very simple restaurant by the shore. Return to city centre. Tea and baklavas at the Çirağan Palace, followed by a visit to Beyoğlu, the city’s main shopping street. Drinks on the panoramic top floor of the Anemon Hotel at the Galata Tower, overlooking the Golden Horn and the old city; dinner afterwards at Imroz Restaurant in the busy Flower Market area of Beyoğlu.
Wednesday September 30th:
Visit to the Palace of the Sultans at Top Kapı – symbol of Ottoman power, and its greatest collection of art and architecture. We will go early so as to avoid the crowds. Late morning visit to the Archaeological Museum of Istanbul which adjoins the palace. Afternoon free. Drinks in the garden, followed by dinner at Develi Restaurant in Samatya, going there by local transport, and returning with private transport.
PAMPHYLIA & THE SOUTH COAST (September trip)
Thursday October 1st:
Check-out, transfer to the airport and flight (90 mins.) to Antalya. On arrival, a short ride by private coach to the waterfalls at Manavgat, and then a visit to the extensive ruins of Side. On the return to Antalya, a visit to the well-preserved Roman theatre at Aspendos. Check in to our hotel. Drinks in the old quarter of town, followed by dinner in the harbour area.
Friday October 2nd:
Morning walk through Antalya, visiting both ancient and Islamic sights. Afternoon visit by private coach to the ruins at Perge, and one of the most dramatic ancient sites in the Mediterranean, at Termessos.
Saturday October 3rd:
A leisurely sail in the lea of the Taurus mountains for our final day in Turkey, crossing the gulf of Antalya in our own boat to the romantic site of Phaselis. Picnic on the shore. Afternoon free for rug-shopping and enjoying Antalya’s attractive centre.
Sunday October 4th:
Early morning flight to Istanbul, to connect with onward flights back to the USA.
Price in US Dollars: $3,250. Single accommodation supplement: $450. This includes:
- Dinner every night, except (9/23) when lunch is included instead of dinner; plus four other lunches.
- The return scheduled flights from Istanbul to Kayseri or Antalya.
- All airport transfers, boat trips, balloon-rides, and ground transportation by private air-conditioned coach.
- All entrance tickets to sites and museums visited.
- All lodging on bed-and-breakfast terms.
- All tips and gratuities.
- My services as guide, lecturer and organizer.
Flights:
In arranging your return flight to Istanbul from the United States, you will need to bear in mind that our first activity (visiting Santa Sophia) is at 4 o’clock on September 26th (Fall). When I have your flight details I will arrange for everybody to be met and transferred from the airport to the hotel, but you should aim to arrive in Istanbul – by whichever route you choose – not later than 1.30 pm on that day. I recommend using Delta’s non-stop service from JFK to Istanbul (DL72), leaving JFK at 4.30 pm on Sept. 25th, arriving Istanbul Sept 26th at 9.55 am, local time.
On the return, the flight from Kayseri (TK 267) lands at Istanbul airport at 8.15 am, and the Antalya flight (TK 405) at 8.45 am, allowing in both cases ample time for connections for all the returning transatlantic flights.
Visas
These are purchased at Istanbul airport on arrival, and need paying for in US dollars cash. The visa costs $20 per person.
I hope this brief description whets your appetite for visiting our most unusual destination yet. I will write with a more detailed itinerary and information nearer to the time.
All the best in the mean time,
Nigel McG.,
9th September 2008.
